This procedure is for our remanufactured Ford 6.7L Power Stroke diesel long block for 2011-2019 Ford F-250/F-350/F-450 Super Duty pickups and F-350/F-450/F-550 cab and chassis trucks. A diesel's piston rings seat under load, not at idle. Following this procedure is required to keep your warranty.

Not for F-650/F-750: this long block fits 2011-2019 F-250 through F-550 Super Duty trucks only. The 2016-2019 F-650/F-750 medium-duty 6.7L is a different engine variant. Aftermarket belt-driven air compressors (for example, VMAC under-hood units) bolt on and don't affect the long block. If your truck has an engine-mounted air compressor, send us your VIN and a photo before ordering.

The engine ships pre-lubed (assembly lube applied), but it has not been run or cold-tested, so every step below still applies.

Before you install (installer)

• Find and fix whatever caused the old engine to fail.
• You must install a new oil cooler to keep your warranty, because the old cooler can hold metal and debris from the failed engine. Add our new Ford engine oil cooler add-on ($199).
• Flush or replace the radiators, coolers and lines, and clean the intake, intercooler and EGR system so no debris from the old engine gets in.
• Contaminated fuel or a failed CP4 pump: if the old engine or fuel system had metal in it or bad fuel (water, DEF or gasoline), or the CP4 pump failed, replace the entire high-pressure fuel system (pump, lines, both rails and all 8 injectors). Also drain and clean the tank, replace both fuel filters, flush the low-pressure lines and inspect the frame-mounted fuel module (DFCM).
• Replace any high-pressure fuel line that has been removed or loosened; don't reuse them.
• If the old turbo failed and oil got into the exhaust, drain the exhaust before reinstalling it and don't run a manual regen.

Oil and pre-lube

• Use about 13 quarts (with filter) of conventional (non-synthetic) heavy-duty diesel oil meeting Ford spec WSS-M2C171-F1. Ford's main grade is 10W-30; 15W-40 is fine when temperatures stay above 20°F.
• Don't use synthetic oil, break-in additives or friction modifiers during break-in.
• Pre-fill the new oil filter, then pre-lube the engine with a pressure pre-lubricator until oil reaches the rocker arms, and confirm pressure on a manual gauge.
• Pour clean oil into the turbo's oil inlet before connecting the feed line.

Coolant (two systems)

• The 6.7 has a primary and a secondary cooling system, each with its own degas bottle. Fill both with Motorcraft Orange coolant (prediluted, or concentrate mixed with distilled water). Never mix coolant types.
• A vacuum filler is best; bleed both systems per the Ford workshop procedure.

Prime the fuel system

• Turn the key to ON (don't crank) for 30 seconds, then OFF. Repeat at least 6 times to run the lift pump and purge air.
• Don't crank more than 10 seconds at a time, don't open the high-pressure lines to bleed them, and never use starting fluid.

First start

• Do the key-on fuel priming above first (key ON for 30 seconds, then OFF, at least 6 times, without cranking).
• Don't touch the pedal while starting. Let it idle until oil pressure reads normal and check for leaks (about 3 minutes if a turbo was installed), then hold 1,500-2,000 rpm until the thermostats open.
• Keep this first run short (about 5-10 minutes). Once it cools, recheck the oil and both degas bottles and top up.

Break-in period: first 1,000 miles

• Vary your speed and load and avoid long, steady cruising. Don't labor or lug the engine, and don't rev it while parked.
• No trailer towing for the first 500 miles.
• Avoid idling for long periods.
• Let DPF regenerations finish (steady driving above 30 mph helps) and don't ignore "drive to clean" messages.
• Watch your gauges and check the oil and coolant levels often.

At 500 miles

• Change the oil and filter. Stay on non-synthetic oil until after this first oil change, then follow Ford's maintenance schedule for your truck.
• Keep all receipts.

Long idling or light-load driving during break-in can glaze the cylinders, which leads to oil burning and low power.

Warranty

• A new oil cooler must be installed to keep the warranty (see "Before you install").
• The warranty does not cover damage caused by contaminated fuel or by debris from a failed fuel system (such as a CP4 pump failure) if the fuel system was not fully cleaned or replaced as described in "Before you install" above.

Full terms: Warranty & Refund Policy.